Culture & Travel

Welcome to Gambia, West Africa

Article & Photos By Adjua Dubb

Despite its little size on the map, Gambia is a country full of big things. With English as their colonial language, Gambia's official language is Wolof and if you ever venture to the country, you better learn it! Culture is the foremost thing that binds everyone together. It's something that everyone adheres to--you see it in their homes, in their clothing, in their mannerisms, its complete and it is the fabric of life. Gambians place long flowing drapes in and around their homes, I suppose to guard against mosquitoes. Most people have a very special place for their ancestors, the pictures of mothers, fathers, grandfathers and prophets grace their walls. It was probably one of the most consistent themes I witnessed at each house we visited. Why were we visiting? My husband, Alex, had not been home in over 12 years. It was a homecoming for him--he had to visit, see family, give money and meet with his relatives. What was so striking was the tight community in which everyone seemed to keep among each other. There were no strangers, unless you were a tourist. But everyone knew who everyone was, from the littlest of children to the greatest of grandmothers.

Homes in the Gambia, are called compounds. Compounds represent either a complex of several one-tier apartments or just one single house. Each compound is surrounded by a six-foot concrete structure that ensures security to the compound. Some fancier houses had elaborate gates, and others were simple entrances, but all exhibited the structure surrounding the land or home. Gambia by far is not a rich nation economically. Depending on status, people may or may not have electricity in their homes. But Gambians seem to have moved on to the modern world regardless if the country has not been able to keep up. People have plenty of cell phones and watch lots of TV--CNN, European and American movies, music videos, African music videos and local music showcasing all types of African talent. There were special Muslim shows that aired regularly and many types of commentary shows. Sports is also a favorite of Gambians, with football (soccer) being the favorite.

Daily life for many Gambians revolves simply around business whether it is simply selling mirrors, combs and brushes on the ground; selling a barrel of oranges on the street; or selling cold water, ice treats, peppers and spices, fish and peanuts, clothing, fabric, shoes, belts, books, art and even money! Yes money! Money changers are everywhere holding a calculator for the tourist to change over their foreign currency for the Dalasi.

People are glued to making a living and supporting their lives, and a lot of interaction stems from Serrekunda to Banjul (the capital), back to Senegambia. For many, transportation is a major obstacle and most people have to rely on the bush taxi, vans that are makeshift buses that carry 7-8 passengers to the main cities. They make rounds all day, with a buddy system that is both conventional and genius. For the driver, it's much easier to have an assistant that lures in the passengers, yelling out the side of the window, "Serrekunda" or "Banjul" and all day they solicit people to fill seats, collecting money from the passengers and loading anything on the van that may need a ride also. You'll find in the bush taxi anything goes--chickens, sheep, furniture, whatever you have. If it can fit, get on board! The driver is usually content with a full van while listening to blasting sounds of Senegalese superstar, Youssour N'door or heavy pulsing riddims of reggae. The constant rhythm of loading and unloading passengers made for an interesting ride for the novice like myself. I was very impressed with the amount of patience and manner in which people behaved on the buses.

For people who have their own cars, they'll find no policemen handing out tickets. However, checkpoints were prevalent in some areas. Since the police make minimal salaries, they often look to have drivers pay them to get off for any offense. Bribery is a common tool and is seen as part of the culture. It's just the way things are, as is sad and true, that funnels down from the top of the government. Driving in the Gambia seems to be an at-your-own-risk policy. There are no street signs, stop and yield signs, and I believe we came across only one stop light, which most people paid very little attention to. Just drive at your own risk, and maybe you'll get where you're going. The streets in Gambia are also some of the most complex arrangements I have ever seen. There are no street signs, and no numbered houses or addresses that we are so used to having. You know where you are based on the landmark. Most side streets were not paved and were just sand, dirt, and pot holes making for a bumpy ride. It was really amazing to see people didn't have as many accidents, because the driving is so chaotic, yet so organized.

Upon arriving in Gambia, you'll here the prayers of an Imam omnisciently sounding from a loud speaker in a Mosque. Islam is the official religion of Gambia, with an overwhelming 90% of the country practicing and devout Muslims. However, there are distinct variations of Islam in all parts of the world, and those variations are played out in the cultural manifestations of each particular country. Islam came to the country in the early tenth century. The religion which dominated out of the Middle East spread across Africa has a firm place in Gambia. Unlike places where we perceive Islam to be a fundamentally oppressive religion that has no tolerance, it is completely not true in Gambia. With modernity, communication and global representation of ideas, Islam has its own interpretation in Gambia. It meshes deeply with natural African customs, cultural motifs and traditions.

Many carry the idea that Islam carried the African out of the "darkness" and Islam represents that spiritual guidance that enlightened them and gave them a viable prophet and God to praise. For many the idea that Islam is the light and what the ancestors of old were doing was "dark" and wrong. Making idols out of masks and various other types of worship and configuration were customary for centuries the beginnings of many cultures in Africa. Like Christianity was used to conform the masses, so has Islam been used. While there are many positive and negative aspects to this reality, I found that Islam is there to stay, and for the most part provides the social mores and values of the people.

In Gambia, the religion seems to guide the people rather than dictating to them, and for all the sufferation, deprivation of colonization, slavery and rape the country has and continues to endure, the pure benevolence, submission and respect that people have for each other and for Islam is fundamental to its daily survival. No matter what we go through, we still have a God with which to give thanks and practice humility. It's a true testimony of the spirit of a people, to pray 5 times a day without remorse. Every Friday for 30 minutes everyone prays together at the same time. It was really one of the most wholistic experiences I have ever had. Confirming my own relationship with God was something that really had an impact on me, and for that I truly respect the Islamic religion.

While the majority practices Islam, there are other religions that exist in the Gambia: Christianity and Catholicism have many members and other non-traditional groups that seem to make up this hybrid of spiritual energy. Last but not least, there has been a growing phenomenon of Rastafarians making themselves known in the tiny nation. Rasta is naturally African--it is the one true way of life that embraces all things African--masks, dance, drum, colors and all. Rastafari has come from the shores of Jamaica and has landed its way back to Africa and has been reaching the masses for many years. The music, culture, and lingo of Rastafari is very much alive and well in Gambia. As I walked around, I was greeted heartily by dread and non-dread that truly embraced Rastafari. Calling the name of Haile Selassie and Rasta were common and the natural basic tendencies of Rasta life were also present: drumming, smoking, reasoning and lots of reggae! This culture--the newest to have any social impact on Gambian youth--is gaining momentum, and with heavy rotation of reggae music, Rastafari too is here to stay in Gambia. If you ever get the chance to visit, check the Rasta Garden, an outdoor dancehall/club that pulses heavy riddims all night long.

With all of these great cataclysms living side by side in Gambia, it's no wonder Gambia's nickname is "The Smiling Coast." If you ever plan to venture to Africa, make Gambia one of your places to visit.

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For the past 10 years, Adjua Dubb has been an advocate, promoter and writer for Reggae music.  She is an archivist and collector of the music, information and all things related. Currently, she has her own production company, Dubbtonical Productions out of Washington D.C.